Companies add technologies that are already in the portfolio to news and offer options to those who bet in the organic and vegan niche
“The urban environment is fast becoming an increasingly complex environment and this causes an increase in anxiety, stress and overload on individuals. The stress levels of younger generations are rising and this affects the quality of life of these populations. The pursuit of nature turns out to be an outlet for all this pressure and a healthy lifestyle alternative from body and mind care. Conscious environmental preservation of the individual and food play an important role in this context. ” This is how Leonardo Cerqueira Lima, Merck’s marketing expert, thinks.
According to him, in the cosmetics market this all translates into the greater use of natural or natural ingredients in increasingly simple formulas. “The growth of cosmetic food ingredients follows this trend and makes nutritional ‘fashions’ also come into play, demonstrating the strong growth of vegan cosmetics,” he says.
The executive believes that for the foreseeable future the consumer and industry tend to worry even more about the entire production chain that must be sustainable from start to finish. According to him, Merck is a pioneer in the development of natural and vegan ingredients for the cosmetic industry. “The list of options is extremely large to cover completely, but it ranges from treatment assets to pigments that provide different color and gloss effects,” he says.
Lima highlights the vegan ingredient RonaCare RenouMer, which is a naturally occurring asset. He explains that it is produced from the seaweed cytoplasm, taking advantage of all its “moisturizing power”, which nourishes the skin’s collagen by increasing softness and elasticity. “It is also a highlight because the cultivation of these algae is done sustainably, favoring all the local biodiversity off the coast of Brittany, France.”
The product has been on the market for about two years and, according to Lima, has brought great benefits to the cosmetic industry and the general consumer. The executive points out that simplicity is an important factor in both the development of new products and the search for the best quality of life. “A single asset is able to provide high effectiveness in skin treatment in many aspects – moisturizing, wrinkle reduction, collagen support – and is sustainable and ethical with the environment,” he says.
Lima explains that for the industry RonaCare RenouMer is extremely easy to work with in any type of formulation. “It provides a plethora of options for claims placement and marketing in the final product, and has the full support of international certifications,” he adds.
Merck also has news. This year, the company plans to launch six new vegan pigments and a natural active, as well as a bioactive line. “Apart from the products, we will launch new concepts for scalp treatment, insect repellent and skin care, among others”, reveals Lima.
Adaptogenic – Vegan appeal has increased its space in cosmetic releases, as have claims free-from. “We recently saw ‘food’ ingredients occupy cosmetics. Products with ingredients from fruits, vegetables and vegetables are already common on the shelves, ”says Marina Fernandes, Dinaco’s marketing director.
According to her, a trend that should gain strength in the coming years, following the gastronomy and aligned with the Food & Beverage market is that of adaptogens for beauty. Natural products with anti-stress properties increasingly present in foods and supplements should also appear in cosmetics. Examples are turmeric and aloe vera.
Marina highlights Novachem, an Argentine company present in more than 20 countries, distributed in Brazil by Dinaco, which has 10 years of experience in research and development of active ingredients of natural origin. “It has an extensive portfolio of natural and vegan actives, all paraben-free, hypoallergenic, ophthalmologically and dermatologically tested and without animal studies – cruelty free.”
Dinaco has several certified organic and vegan products. A highlight, according to Marina, is Aprinnova’s Neossance line, whose Squalane and Hemisqualane products are circular economy and fermented fruits, and have ECOCERT and Bio-based certifications by the USDA (US Department of Agriculture). “The ingredients are of natural origin from renewable sugarcane, whose cultivation in Brazil does not require irrigation and represents the highest level of biomass per hectare among all sugar sources,” he says. In addition, the executive says, production residues are converted into electricity to feed the plant and the local community, and the sugarcane fermentation process generates less greenhouse gases compared to similar ones produced from of oil.
Tuning with trends – In the view of Professor Eliane Dornellas, specialist in life sciences, the directions of this market are already outlined. A growing market with more natural, vegan, cruelty free and organic products. “The trend towards personal hygiene and beauty products points to an ethical consumption, with low water consumption, with ecofriedly products, items that, besides being not tested on animals, use vegetal raw material”, he says.
Companies generally understand this movement and are preparing to serve their customers. Colormix Specialties is an example. It has in its portfolio products created based on amino acids, by the company Sino Lion, from the United States, surfactants, emollients, conditioners, emulsifiers and adjuvants (chelators, preservatives, antioxidants and pH adjusters), as well as rheological agents. certified natural products and raw materials from the Brazilian biodiversity, such as butters, vegetable oils and botanical extracts.
In biotechnology-based products, the raw materials are produced from plant inputs that result in amino acids common to those in human skin (alanine, glutamic acid, wisteria), which gives them a friendly character that mimics and respects the skin, explains Alexandre Castro Monteiro, commercial manager of Colormix. According to him, natural rheological agents allow the creation of makeup, when combined with natural pigments and pearls, are an option to replace synthetic acrylic acid polymers and can be used in a wide pH range.
The synergy with market opportunities and demands is not today, the company combines old and new solutions to diversify and offer options. Monteiro points out that 20 years ago the Eversoft line of amino acid surfactants appeared in the American market – in Brazil for less time – and that it has several options of anionic and nonionic surfactants. The manager adds that Eckart’s line of natural and certified rheological agents is new to the cosmetic market and Colormix Specialties has these options, which can be combined to create “many high quality products that meet the growing trend of green products ”.
“Last year, Sino Lion won the US and Japanese patent on the process of creating and producing amino acid surfactants, which in addition to producing a raw material considered green chemistry, developed a cost-effective, non-polluting process. “, account.
Robust portfolio – In addition to the amino acid surfactants, Colormix Especialidades has a line of natural emollients from the Brazilian biodiversity, formed by oils and butters from the region. This year, the company introduces to the market a complete line of amino acid-based products, highlighting chelators, such as replacing EDTA, preservative for paraben free products and a super moisturizer (polyglutamic acid) that ensures hydration of form. continuous and prolonged.
Of Brazilian biodiversity, the highlight is the tucumã butter, which has a light sensory, with good slip, indicated to replace the silicone sensory in hair and body products.
Attractive Niche – Brenntag still sees organic cosmetics as a niche in Brazil and a segment with great potential. According to the distributor, consumers have increasingly positioned themselves, demanding that beauty care brands seek innovations that are free of animal origin and cruelty. “What we realize is that not necessarily a vegan person looks for organic or vegan cosmetics; We realize that consumers care about the environment, thus seeking sustainable products and the highest concentration of items with this characteristic of organic / vegan cosmetic ”, explains Norma Clarice Gonçalves, from the company’s technical department.
The company already works with some technologies for the organic and vegan cosmetic market, such as the coconut derived vegetable alkanes line, being an alternative to volatile silicones. “The Vegelight line is 100% plant certified and provides excellent formulation benefits,” says Norma. She points out that these products are easy to handle, shine and moisturize hair donors and dry touch when applied to the skin, among others.
“We reinforced our presence with this innovation in 2018 and already have positive results, which we see as a great business potential,” says the executive. For 2019, Brenntag has some innovations, such as Fermentoil Hair Complex. It is a blend of fermented vegetable oils, able to promote hydration, shine, softness and restoration to the hair.
Keeping an eye on the differences between organic and natural cosmetics, the company is looking for new technologies. Norma explains that, in the company’s view, the consumer began to change with the introduction of natural cosmetics and then saw the need that in addition to containing raw materials of natural origin the product needs to associate the cultivation issues of these ingredients. “This is a niche with great room for innovation and we bet on it, the market today does not include sunscreen of plant origin and this is a theme of research and development at Brenntag”, reveals.
Retail – Consumers have found all kinds of releases when it comes to organic and vegan cosmetic. From trade shows where smaller entrepreneurs present their creations to specialized brands in the market. A recent example comes from Classy Brands’ Ultra Action vegan paraben-free oral care line.
The brand offers toothbrushes with charcoal bristles, which, according to the company, are antibacterial. Toothpastes have a complete formula with active calcium and fluoride, effectively helping to prevent tooth decay and preserving tooth enamel. Mouthwashes promise to eliminate 99.9% of germs, fight tooth decay, plaque, tartar and leave your breath fresh. Ultra Action is a 98% environmentally friendly, non-animal tested line with “no toxic raw materials” formulations.
Vegan lipsticks also emerge prominently. One is from Biozenthi. With vitamin E, shea butter and heavy metal-free pigments, Italian Make liquid lipstick has antioxidant action, high consistency and safe use for vegan, allergic and celiac. The item has organic pigments and one of the highlights of the formulation, according to the manufacturer, is the use of carnauba wax, an ingredient obtained from palm, which gives consistency and fixation to the lipstick. Shea butter is rich in fatty acids and tocopherols, so it is moisturizing, emollient and nutritious.
What’s more, along with vitamin E, it has antioxidant and protective action, explains the company.
Weleda – brand specializing in the subject – recently launched in Brazil, in a special limited edition of Christmas, the almond body line. Success in Germany, Switzerland, France and the United States, it was developed with organic sweet almond oil and, according to the manufacturer, helps in restoring the natural balance of the skin, especially sensitive skin, helping to prevent irritation.
The new line consists of creamy liquid soap, hand cream and moisturizing body lotion, a trio that provides deep and prolonged hydration thanks to the unique combination of fatty acids. Like the brand’s other cosmetics, all three products contain only certified organic natural ingredients, are free of parabens and other preservatives, artificial colors and fragrances. They also do not contain petroleum derivatives such as mineral oil. No products are tested on animals.
Source: H&C Magazine Writing
